One of the things I like most is receiving email from around the world and answering bicycle questions. I’ve replied to thousands while I’ve had this site and since I became a cycling technical writer in 1983. If you have a question, email me and I’ll reply as soon as possible.

Or, if you prefer, browse my bicycle FAQ here, where there’s a good chance you’ll find an answer. This page is divided into sections shown below and each section includes an index of included questions to make jumping to topics easy. You may also search this document for any word using your browser’s Find function (click Edit and select Find).

For more of my bicycle technical questions and answers, news and fun bike stuff, be sure to follow my Bicycle Beat blog, and my Tech Talk column on RoadBikeRider.com too.

Good reading!
Jim Langley

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Road cycling shoes
Chain holder
Rollers or trainer
Kid trailers
Keeping your feet warm

Road cycling shoes
What do I need to know to get a good pair of road cycling shoes?

The most important thing is to get shoes that fit right and are comfortable, and the best way to figure this out is to try on lots of different shoes and compare how they feel. How a road shoe should fit depends a lot on how you use it.

If you’re a serious road cyclist who spends most of your biking time, biking (versus walking a fair amount here and there), you’ll want rigid-soled road shoes that fit glove-like on your feet allowing just enough room for toe wiggling. The shoes should be about ½ size snugger than a running shoe. The reason is, your feet do not move in a cycling shoe when you’re pedaling and you don’t want them to because it would be inefficient and could lead to chafing and blisters and pain.

If, on the other hand (or should I say “foot?”), you’re going to be touring or riding centuries and you plan to walk a good bit on your rides at food stops or for sight seeing, you should get walkable shoes that take a recessed cleat (the cleat is the part that joins the shoes to the pedals). These shoes have a more flexible and sticky sole that’s much better for walking. And you should get these shoes slightly larger than the serious road shoes because you’ll need some toe room for comfort when walking.

The best place to learn about shoes and find out what works for you and your feet is at a bike shop. I suggest trying on inexpensive shoes and more pricey models to see if you can feel a difference. Be sure to ask the salesperson to check the fit and talk to them about which shoes are best for your intended use. Don’t be afraid to spend some money if you really like the fit and feel of a shoe.

Remember that a good cycling shoe will last a long, long time. I ride literally every day and I can easily get 5 years or more of use out of a good cycling shoe (I do take care of them by walking in them carefully and drying them carefully after riding in the rain by stuffing them with newspaper).

So, though the initial price may seem high for a top-notch shoe like a Sidi or Carnac, if you average out the cost over a number of years, the shoes are actually more affordable than your average pair of cross trainers (which last a year at the most). There are definitely a lot of choices and it can seem bewildering but there are significant differences in how the shoes fit and feel and that’s the easiest way to narrow down your choices.

If it helps, I’ve been cycling for a long time, and my experience has been that Italian shoes are the best. They’re also among the most costly ($100 to $300). (But remember what I said about how long they last.)
(Back to Accessories index)

Chain holder
There was an accessory that when one removed their rear wheel, you could take this device and mount it into the rear dropout. This would enable your chain to freewheel without the rear cluster. Then one could clean the chain with one of those chain-cleaner tools. This device was made of aluminum with a plastic knob that turned to secure this tool in the dropout. Pedro’s makes one that self-destructs after two cleanings because it is made of cheap plastic. Can you offer any suggestions on other tools or ways to do this?

I have one of these tools in my toolbox, but mine’s plastic, too. It’s not cheap plastic, though. I’ve had it for a long time and it’s held up fine. To try to find one, I looked in Quality Bicycle Products, the Third Hand, Park Bicycle Tools and searched online and couldn’t turn one up, which is disappointing to say the least.

So, since I can’t tell you where to buy one, I’m going to suggest that in the grand tradition of bicyclists everywhere, you make your own! In fact, with just a little expense, you ought to be able to make one that’ll last a lifetime.

All you need is a bent rear wheel that a bike shop has discarded or that you find at a flea market or that you take off an abandoned bike. Ideally the wheel will have a quick-release hub. If you can find a wheel like this, you can remove the freewheel/cassette, then cut the spokes out and remove the rim and spokes. This will leave you with just the rear hub.

Reinstall the freewheel/cassette and quick release skewer and you have a handy chain holder for cleaning the chain. It’ll be bigger than the plastic ones, but it should work better because it won’t ever loosen while you work and it might even help clean the chain with the teeth on the cassette poking through the links on each revolution.

By the way, I have heard from some Pedro’s Chain Keeper (click on Bike Care Kits) users who say the tool works great so I think it’s possible that you got a defective one. You might consider giving it a second try.
(Back to Accessories index)

Rollers or trainer
I want to ride this winter but I’m not sure what type of indoor trainer to buy. Can you give me the pros and cons of rollers and trainers?

Sure:
Rollers are comprised of a frame that rests on the floor and holds 3 (usually) cylinders (also called rollers or drums) that spin. You place your bike on top of the rollers and start pedaling and you can ride, the same way you ride outdoors. You must keep pedaling and steer to remain balanced and stay on top of the rollers. If you steer too far to the right or left, you’ll ride off the front roller and fall over. Often, there is a resistance device built into the roller to provide different workout levels.

Pros of rollers
1) They teach excellent balance because you have to steer to stay on.
2) They take skill to ride so time passes more quickly.
3) They’re fun to ride.
4) You’ll dazzle non-biker friends who think it’s some kind of magic trick when you ride in place.

Cons of rollers
1) You have to steer so it’s hard to focus on TV or videos.
2) You don’t get comfortable on them right away so it takes a bit of practice before you can work out hard, sprinting and climbing out of the saddle; some people never get good enough to do it.

Other Trainers
The alternative to rollers are indoor trainers (often called Wind Trainers). These are comprised of triangular folding steel frames that support the rear wheel of the bike. Usually, there is a resistance device incorporated into the trainer and that’s where the designation, wind, mag (for magnetic) or fluid comes in.

Pros of trainers
1) Easy to use: just install your bike (a 2-minute job) and ride; no practice needed.
2) No bike control required so you may fully concentrate on TV or whatever.
3) You can sprint or climb standing right away.
4) Almost no risk of falling over.
5) They fold up and can be stored and taken along easily.

Cons of trainers
None

About Wind, Magnetic and Fluid
Basically, all are designations for the ways that the resistance device creates the drag on the rear wheel to make you work hard. The first type to come along was wind, which was a fan that caught air to create drag. Then came magnetic, which used magnets to cause the drag. And the latest is fluid, which traps the fan in a liquid bath to create the drag. All three work but fluid is quietest (most expensive) though mags are close (a little less expensive than fluid). Wind is the noisiest but usually the cheapest. All designs work, so I’d recommend trying the one you’re thinking of getting before buying to see how easy it is to mount your bike and to discover how smoothly and quietly it operates.
(Back to Accessories index)

Kid trailers
I’m thinking of getting a trailer to bring my young kids along on rides. Any advice on what I should look for?

Child trailers make a lot of sense because they allow towing two kids (even kids too young to ride in baby seats) in a fairly well-protected rolling environment. You can put books, toys, food, a radio, etc. in with your kids to keep them comfortable and happy. Most trailers provide shelter from wind, rain, sun and the cold; and some level of shock absorption against rough roads .

Trailers are stable and not prone to tipping. They also carry cargo so you can combine rides with grabbing some groceries. And they’re pretty easy to pull with the exception of climbing steep hills and fighting strong headwinds. You can still ride, but you’ll want low gears and should probably choose routes that minimize these difficulties.

You can find trailers or information about trailers in any good bike shop. The company that has a long-standing reputation in trailers is Burley. But, you’ll find shops offering trailers by other makers as well.

When shopping, try the trailer out to see how easy it is to attach and detach from the bicycle you’ll use it with. Ideally, it’ll be a 2-minute task. Otherwise, you may be less inclined to use the trailer. Nice features to look for include manageable total weight so you’re not pulling too hefty a load; and quick and easy folding or collapsing, which makes it much easier to fit the trailer in a car should you want to take it on vacation or simply drive to a nice place to bike with your family.

When using a trailer, pick paths and roads that are compatible with your wide load. If you choose busy bike paths frequented by inline skaters, joggers and dog walkers, ride very carefully because the extra width of the trailer can surprise other path users who are not always paying attention. Usually, you get used to the width of the trailer quickly and don’t have problems running into things. But, it’s definitely important to always keep in mind that the trailer is back there and that snagging things with the trailer (such as parking meters) could lead to injury to you and the kids.

One of best things about these trailers is excellent resale value because the demand is so high for used child trailers. When your kids are grown and you no longer need the trailer, just run an ad in the classifieds and the trailer will sell before you know it for at least half what you paid for it.
(Back to Accessories index)

Keeping your feet warm
My feet freeze when it’s less than 40 degrees out. What do you recommend??

I like booties that you wear over your cycling shoes. The ones that have worked best for me are made of neoprene, the same stuff wetsuits are made of. A lot depends on your feet and how good your circulation is. But these work for me around here in northern California. Of course it doesn’t get much below 35 degrees here in the winter but sometimes we get ice on the roads and I usually average around 17mph on rides, which makes it colder with wind chill.

These booties work for me in those conditions. Some people recommend putting plastic bags inside your shoes (over your socks) to keep the wind out too. You’ll have to try this yourself to see if it makes you too hot or works.

Some riders, who apparently have good circulation in their feet, just cut up a large pair of wool socks and pull them over their shoes as booties. So that’s another way to go or something you can try if you don’t want to buy booties right away. By the way, what I’ve found with booties is that they definitely keep your feet warmer longer. But, if you stay out long enough (several hours) your feet will end up getting cold eventually anyway.

Another trick is to use your mountain-biking shoes for road riding. These usually fit more loosely than the road shoes allowing a thicker sock (wool socks insulate great, wick moisture and provide warmth when dry and wet). Plus, off-road shoes are made of thicker material for more insulation.

Finally, don’t tie or strap your shoes too tightly when it’s cold because that will cut off the circulation to your feet letting them freeze more quickly.
(Back to Accessories index)

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Selling used bicycles
LandRider (aka the Autobike)
Finding a highwheel bike

Selling used bicycles
My parents have a couple of old bikes they no longer use. How would you recommend selling them?

It’s pretty easy to sell used bicycles. Just place an ad in the local newspaper and you’ll probably find a buyer. Or, you could lock them on the lawn out in front of your house with a For Sale sign on them and drivers passing by might stop and buy them. Holding a yard sale or taking them to a flea market for sale is another option. Many people also sell bicycles on eBay, the popular auction website. I’ve sold many things on there and it works well. Another way to sell bikes is to simply tell everyone you know that you have some bikes for sale. When you’re buying groceries, getting a haircut, at the post office, etc. — everyone and anyone you run into who you know, you can strike up a conversation and ask if they know of anyone looking for bikes.

You can also print up 3 x 5 cards with descriptions of the bikes on them and your phone number and put them up on bulletin boards around town. Bike shops often have these BBs for ads like this. But, you often also find them at supermarkets and at bus stops and at colleges and High School campuses.
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LandRider (formerly known as the Autobike)
I’ve seen those infomercials on late-night TV about the LandRider (formerly called the Autobike), a bicycle that shifts automatically. Have you tried it? Do you think it’s any good? It sure looks good on TV.

Yes, I tested an Autobike a few years ago and found it interesting. Since that time, Autobike went out of business, but the invention is still available and now sold as the LandRider. These bikes have better frames and components than what was used on the Autobike, however, they’re also more expensive.

The unique shifting system on these bikes operates off centrifugal force. The derailleur has a third jockey wheel attached to a floating disk on the wheel. And there are 3 sliding wheel weights connected via telescoping plungers to this disk.

As the wheel accelerates or slows, the weights spread or contract, the plungers extend or return, and the derailleur shifts the chain down or up the freewheel. Though the drivetrain adds heft (total bike weight of the model I rode was 35.25 pounds; LandRider models are around 30 to 32 pounds) it’s reasonably simple in design and works okay. Shifting is driven by wheel movement and speed so you don’t even have to pedal for shifts to occur. Which means you always start out in a nice low gear.

Whether or not you’ll appreciate the LandRider depends on what you’re looking for in a ride. In my opinion, experienced riders won’t like the weight; and the somewhat clunky and noisy shifts. They also won’t like not being able to select the gear they want to use (the LandRider determines what gear you’re in).

Beginners and casual pedalers, however, might appreciate the LandRider’s user friendliness. However, there are alternatives that shift much more smoothly that I’d recommend trying before buying a LandRider.

These bicycles are equipped with Shimano’s Auto-D drivetrain, which is a computer-operated 4-speed system. Many bicycle manufacturers offer bikes with this system. I’ve ridden a few and the shifting is as smooth as the shifting in my automatic Toyota, not clunky at all. Also, these bicycles are built with high-quality components whereas the Autobike/LandRider is made of entry-level-quality components.

I would also recommend trying out bicycles equipped with Shimano Nexus 7-speed components, which provide more gears than the Auto-D. These bikes do not shift automatically, yet they’re so easy to shift you won’t have any trouble at all riding the bikes. In fact, you’ll love how easy they are to operate.

Plus, there are a wide variety of Nexus-equipped bikes available so you can choose from many models versus the limited selection of LandRiders. And, unlike the LandRider, they’re sold in bicycle shops where you’ll receive expert advice and set-up with your new bike.
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Finding a highwheel bike
I’m wondering if you can help me find a new highwheel bicycle, you know, the ones based on antique bicycles with huge front wheels?

You can purchase a great reproduction of a highwheeler from Mesicek. This is a very nice modern highwheel. They faithfully copy the details that made highwheelers so popular at the turn of the century and they have a very nice price, which I believe is less than $3,000.

If you would like to find an original highwheel, I would recommend joining the antique bicycle club called The Wheelmen. Once you join this club, you’ll start receiving the club newsletter and in it you’ll find ads for highwheels, which you can buy. Keep in mind that antique bicycles are quite valuable. You can expect to pay 3,000 to 7,000 dollars depending on what you find. However, most of these bikes are true antiques, which is why they cost so much.

You can also search eBay.com for "highwheel" and sometimes you’ll find bikes for sale on there. However, there are people on there selling junk and asking way too much, so you have to be very careful. If you spot something and would like some advice, feel free to email me.
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Integrated headsets
Tire sizes
Sling seat

Integrated headsets
What do you think of the new-style integrated headsets?

I don’t have a lot of experience with modern integrated headsets, the new minimal design that build the cups into the headtube of the frame. But, the design has been around for a long time. I’m familiar with Bianchis and other European bicycles that used internal headsets in the sixties. The bottom line is, if the frame is made carefully and the headset is high quality, it can work as well as any headset. And, it does clean up the looks of the front of the frame. So, I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the design as long as the company did its homework.
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Tire sizes
I am need of new tires. The rims are Mavic, but I’m confused about sizing. The tire is a tubular. I think the size is 27 inch. How to I make sure I get the right size?

If you have a tubular tire (also called a sew-up), and you know that you have full-size wheels (either 700c or 27 inch), you need a 700c tubular. Tubular tires only come in a few sizes and the most common is the 700c. A tubular tire is a unique type of tire that usually has a tube sewn inside. This gives the tubular a round cross section and means that it must be glued onto the rim.

700c and 27 inch are actually different sizes (27 inch is slightly larger diameter than 700c), but they’re often confused because they’re so close and they’re both found on road bikes — or have been over the years. These days, the common road-bike wheel and tire size is 700c. But, people still sometimes mistakenly refer to it as 27 inch, which was popular 25 to 30 years ago.

So, the bottom line is, if you get a tubular called a “27 inch" or "700c,” it will be the same size and it will fit your wheel just fine. The size that you don’t want is “650c.” That size will be too small for your wheels. If you have something besides a tubular tire (if your tires aren’t glued onto the rims, you don’t have tubulars), to determine the size simply look carefully at the sidewalls. You’ll find the tire size marked there if you look closely.
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Sling seat
I’ve seen pictures of an odd bicycle seat that looks like a sling, sort of like a lawn chair. Do you know about these seats and whether they’re available?

Here’s a picture of the original sling saddle as built and ridden by the inventor and noted cyclist, Dan Henry. For a while this seat was sold as The Bummer, but, as far as I can tell, it’s no longer available.

So my recommendation is to make your own. The construction is pretty straightforward and shouldn’t cost much. All you need is a stem and drop handlebars that fit together. You could use whatever’s available, maybe stuff purchased at a flea market or swap meet or even at the dump.

Assemble the stem and the bar as shown in the photo and cut and sew some dungaree material or canvas or nylon webbing or what have you, to form the sling that slips over the flat portions of the handlebar. The tricky part will be making the stem fit inside the seat tube on the frame. You’ll probably have to shim it. There are many ways to do this.

The cleanest is to get a piece of tubing and turn the outside and inside diameters down, the former to fit the frame and the latter to fit the stem, which is now the seatpost. Then slot the tubing shim you’ve created so when you tighten the seatpost binder it’ll grip and hold. I imagine a machinist could make such a shim for an hour’s worth of labor. Or you could just fashion a shim out of anything you might have around the house. It shouldn’t be too difficult to find something that works.
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Tank for a 1952 Hawthorne
Collecting nameplates (head badges)
Sears chrome 3-speed
Speedwell Titanium

Tank for a 1952 Hawthorne
Would you know where I could find the right-side or complete tank for a 1952-3 Hawthorne bike?

Try the various classic bike sources such at the big swap meets, clubs and the shops that sell old bike stuff. Here are a few good sources. Best of luck in your search: National Bicycle History Archive. Classic Antique Bicycle Exchange. Memory Lane Classics Bike Shop. Ann Arbor/Saline Swap Meet.

Also, be sure to regularly check eBay, the online auction site where you’ll find just about everything if you keep looking.
(Back to Collectibles index)

Collecting nameplates (head badges)
How do I determine the value of a nameplate or its authenticity. Any pointers or suggestions will be appreciated because I’m starting a collection.

Value is pretty much in the eye of beholder. In other words, a nameplate is only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it at the time. Over the years, I’ve seen them sell for between $1 to $100. I try to pay no more than $25 per nameplate, but sometimes I have to to get what I want. It all depends on what it is and who’s buying it. If someone needs it for a restoration, it will go for more than if someone wants it for a collection. It’s best to figure out what type of nameplates you like and how much they’re worth to you and then resist the urge to overpay for them because if you can be patient you’ll almost always get another chance to buy the same nameplate and you can usually get it at the price you want to pay.

As far as I can tell, there aren’t more than a handful of real nameplate collectors out there. Still, if you search for nameplates on ebay.com, (also search on “head badge”) you’ll see that there are quite a few for sale and that there are quite a few of us bidding on them, too. That’s a good place to see what’s available and get a feel for prices, too.

As far as authenticity, it’s not that big a problem. Most of the plates that are out there are the real deal. It’s very rare that I run across anything fake. They’re not worth enough for it to be worthwhile for people to make duplicates. You will see reproductions of some obsolete brands, though, but in my opinion, those aren’t fakes, they’re just reproductions of original plates. That keeps the nameplate "alive" and in my opinion is a good thing. Though, I’d value the genuine plate more than the reproduction model.
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Sears chrome 3-speed
I have a Sears chrome bike, 3-speed. This was given to me back in 1966. It is missing the headlight and rack and is in need of a good cleaning and no doubt there will be some pitting in the chrome. My question is if this bike is worth anything?

Well, it all depends on what your idea of value is. It’s certainly worth something to someone, but you never know how much it’ll bring until you find that someone who’s interested in your bike.

Without seeing the bike, it’s hard to estimate what it might sell for. But, used 3-speeds typically go for from $50 to $250, depending on model, condition and equipment. The best place to list bikes for sale is on ebay.com

This site is watched by collectors everywhere and bikes tend to sell for fair value on there since so many people are bidding. So, you could take a photo of your bike and put it on ebay and test the market. If you don’t want to let it go for less than a certain price, you can put a reserve on it. That way, you won’t sell it unless you get what you want for it.

You can also search on eBay to see if similar bikes are for sale to get an idea what yours might bring. Just visit the site and type “Sears bicycle” or "3-speed bicycle" in the search box and see what bikes are for sale. You should do this about once a week because every week the bikes for sale change. I think you’ll probably turn some bikes up and might even get lucky and find the same bike as yours for sale. Then you can watch the auction to see what it sells for. Good luck!
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Speedwell Titanium
I am seeking information regarding the availability and value of a Speedwell titanium bicycle. During my racing years, I had the pleasure of riding one in many USCF time trials and love the bike. I believe very few of these frames were built in the 1970’s and were famous for their workmanship and light weight. Are you aware if any of these are available and what the asking price would be? I am getting nowhere with any of the links that I have been provided with. Do you have any information?

I have only seen a few Speedwells, but always thought they were beautiful. I’m fairly certain that it’s a very rare frame. If I was looking for one, I’d check ebay.com regularly. I just checked and didn’t find anything. But, I’ve been amazed what turns up on there. The trick is checking about once a week and not giving up.

You might also reach out to some of the vintage lightweight collectors out there. One who’s knowledgeable and nice is Chuck Schmidt. I don’t know how much he knows about Speedwell, but he’s a good guy who is connected in the hobby and he might have some ideas for you on where to find one.

You might also try Jim and Susan Cunningham at Cyclart. They paint bicycles and have been in the vintage lightweight hobby for a long time. They see lots of bikes and go to swap meets, etc. They might be able to give you some leads, too.

I also found this page that has some info and pics of Speedwell:
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Tight Dura-Ace bottom bracket
I just bought a beautiful Italian aluminum time trial frame from a well-known shop. I put in a new Dura-Ace bottom bracket. The cups went in very tight. After assembly, the spindle would barely turn. Even with just the fixed cup installed, the spindle was so tight it couldn’t be pulled away from the fixed cup.

The BB worked fine until it was installed. It appeared to me that the threads in the shell were too shallow, compressing the cups slightly. (I used to run a pro shop in a prior lifetime and installed a lot of older style bottom brackets. I never considered BB cups as being compressible but Dura-Ace cups are so thin and light I’m assuming they are somewhat deformable. Simultaneously, I also put a new Dura-Ace BB on my road bike.... it went in perfectly; the only noticeable resistance is from the bearing grease.)

I took the frame back to the shop, they put a new Dura-Ace bottom bracket unit in and told me that they cleaned up the threads. I got the feeling they were not being totally forthcoming with me about the problem. The bottom bracket is still so tight that the spindle barely will turn and it’s impossible to adjust it to have any bearing float... it’s tight even if the adjustable cup is backed out half-way. The cups still thread in very tight. In addition to a lot of unnecessary friction from the bottom bracket, I’m afraid the bearings will fail fairly quickly.

My guess is that the bottom bracket needs to be completely retapped to allow the cups to go in easily. It’s not a question of non-parallel cups as the problem exists only if one cup is installed. Any advice?

Your situation sounds to me like a frame bottom-bracket problem. It’s very unlikely that the problem is originating with the Dura-Ace bottom bracket. I think it’s the frame because those BB cups should go in easily or with a little resistance, but nothing that requires a lot of force to overcome. And, in my experience, it’s fairly common for manufacturers to do a poor job of machining threads in bottom bracket shells. Depending on how the frame was constructed, it’s possible that a lot of heat affected this area, too (because it’s the junction of so many tubes). And aluminum tubes are usually heat treated after welding, which is another process that can warp and distort things. These treatments can make a bad threading job become nearly unusable.

I would suggest chasing the threads and then checking to see if the cups go in easily. If not, the problem may be that the taps on the chasing tools are old and dull and not doing a good job (they’re expensive so shops don’t replace them all that often, usually). Another possibility is that the mechanic did not run the taps in far enough because they were so hard to turn and he gave up too soon. You have to complete the job, tapping the entire thread path. And, of course, it’s very important to use lots of cutting oil, to work slowly, and to back the taps out every couple of turns to brush off the metal filings that can jam things up and prevent the taps from cutting a nice thread.

It takes some muscle to do this right if the frame is as badly "under-threaded" as many I’ve seen. I would usually have another mechanic hold the frame while I turned the taps and slowly but surely, we’d cut nice new threads. When the threads are right and deep enough, the cups will thread in nicely and the bottom bracket should turn beautifully.

You’re right in thinking that if the spindle is too tight to turn by hand that it will wear prematurely. It definitely will. Plus, you’ll be working much harder than you should to pedal the bike, of course. So, I’d have the shop try again. If you think they don’t have the expertise to do the job, you might simply bring the frame to a better shop and have them tap the BB for you. It shouldn’t cost too much.
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It sounds like the mechanism inside your cassette (also called a freewheel) on your rear wheel has corroded. The cassette is that thing that has all the sprockets on it. When it gets rusted or corroded inside, it doesn’t freewheel when you stop pedaling, which pushes the chain forward causing the problems you’re having.

If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to get it working again by spraying some WD-40 or similar light lubricant into the bearings. This is tricky because the bearings aren’t visible. They’re inside the body of the cassette. You’ll have to lean the bike on its left side and look closely and see if there’s a crack between the part that you can move backwards and the part that remains still on the hub as the other part moves. All you need is a tiny gap. When you find it, spray the WD-40 in the gap enough to work some lube around the perimeter. Let the bike rest on its side a bit. Once gravity has drawn the lube into the cassette body, give it a try and if you’re lucky, it won’t bind anymore.

If you can’t find the gap on that side of the cassette, lay the bike on its right side (carefully.. so you don’t bend the derailleur) and look for the gap on that side of the cassette (its back side). You should see a gap on one side or the other that you can spray lube into. The lube should go into the cassette, not the hub bearings (that’s closer to the axle). Don’t get the lube in the hub bearings because it’ll wash the grease out of them and you don’t want that.

Sometimes cassettes are defective, but corrosion is a more common cause of the problem you have; particularly if a bike is stored outside or ridden in the rain and then stored.

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Shifting tips
Heart-rate training
Cadence

Shifting tips
I just got a new bicycle and I’m bewildered by the shifting. Can you give me some simple pointers?

There are a couple basic things to keep in mind shifting bikes: One major thing is that while it’s true that you have to pedal in order to shift, it’s important that you not pedal with a lot of force. When you start to make a shift, you should always ease off on the pedal pressure, let the chain finish shifting and then you can start pedaling as hard as you want again.

Also, if you’re confused about the gearing, it can seem difficult to use. Basically, the gears are just there to provide you a way to adjust the effort required to pedal the bike. As you’re riding along, you’ll notice that it’s either too easy, too hard or just right to pedal. When it’s just right, you’re happy. When it’s too hard or too easy, you should shift. Now, every time you decide to shift, you decide if you need to make a big difference in how easy or hard it is to pedal or a small difference. For small adjustments in pedaling effort, you should move the right shift lever. For major changes in how hard or easy to pedal it is, you move the left lever.

Good cyclists, shift constantly — maybe 100-plus times on a rolling 15 mile ride. The more you shift, the more often you fine-tune the effort to pedal and by doing this, you can save energy and roll along very efficiently. So, don’t be afraid to shift and shift a lot.
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Heart-rate training
I've just purchased a heart-rate monitor. Can you give me some tips on using it?

A heart-rate monitor is a helpful tool because it gives you a way to gauge effort and recovery and track your fitness progress. Depending on your fitness goals you may want to thoroughly read up on using a heart-rate monitor. Most come with manuals, which provide the basics. You can find additional information here.
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Cadence
I’m wondering how fast I should pedal? I know the trend is to keep a higher cadence, but I’m more comfortable pedaling slower. Is this okay?

If you’re comfortable pedaling slightly slower, go ahead and pedal slower. Most people find however, that the more they ride, the more likely it is they just naturally pedal faster.

I’ve been getting faster over the years but I still pedal about 90 to 100 revolutions per minute (RPM) most of the time. That’s just what feels natural to my legs. And that’s what you should do, too. If it feels natural then you’re doing okay. Unless of course, you’re suffering knee pain, or something.

That would indicate that you’re lugging your engine and that’s not good. Ideally, you’ll ride an RPM that allows your legs to feel fresh over any terrain with the gearing that you have on your bike. If that’s the way it is for you now, you’re probably just fine.

If you want to try faster pedaling to see if it’s any better, just shift into the next lower gear whenever you think of it. By getting in this habit you’ll find you have to pedal faster. Then you can see if your legs feel better on or after rides. If so, then you might make an effort to keep riding in lower gears to increase your cadence. You can also train yourself to pedal faster by leaving your bike in lower gears than you’d normally use on downhills. Then, force yourself to keep up with the gear down the hill by pedaling like crazy. You’ll find that you can pedal a lot faster than you might think. You’ll probably even like the snappy feeling it gives you in the legs.
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Bike-repair/mechanics schools
Pedal Extenders
Bike storage
Which Walkman?

Pedal extenders
I just recently started biking again after not riding for about 15 years. In the interim, I broke my leg and have a slight rotation outward (a degree or so) in my left foot. It causes the inside of my foot to rub the crank. I was wondering if anyone sold an extension (about an inch) that I could put on my pedal, or would I have to have something custom made?

Here's a link to "Kneesavers" (a better name would be Anklesavers! These are the only such devices I’m aware of, but they’ve been around for a long time and I’ve heard good things about them from many riders. You can even put them together to get more clearance if needed.
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Bike storage
I currently live in an apartment with an outside closet — I have entertained the idea of using hooks and hanging the bikes from the rims — but won’t this added stress bend the rims out of true? Especially the lightweight aluminum road bike rims?

It’s fine to hang bikes by one wheel on a hook in your closet. The rims are plenty strong enough to handle the weight of a bike. I’ve lived in quite a few apartments and I ALWAYS had bikes hanging by hooks in mine.

Also, it’s really common for bicycle shops to store bikes this way because it takes up the least amount of space. You won’t hurt the rims/wheels. The only thing that might happen, is that if you rest the rim decal on the hook, it can wrinkle it. So, you might be careful to avoid that. But, you won’t damage the wheels.
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Which Walkman?
I know you ride listening to a Walkman. Which model do you use?

I usually ride early in the morning, which means I ride alone a lot. So, about 10 years ago, I started riding with a small radio to listen to music and news. I found that it was a great enhancement to cycling and have used my Walkman on every solo ride since.

Besides the entertainment value, the radio drowns out traffic noise. That’s one of the best things about it. Also, if you’re ever fighting a strong headwind, the music will cut much of the wind noise... though not all of it if it’s really windy.

Just don’t play it too loud because you want to be able to hear enough of the traffic noise to know if danger is approaching (big truck, etc.).

The Walkman I use is still available here. I don’t recommend using the headphones that come with it for cycling because they don’t fit very well beneath a helmet. Instead, I upgrade to these headphones, which are a necklace-style and drape over your shoulder. They pop in your ears and stay there quite nicely. Also, this type of headphone stores in very little space so it’s real handy for travel: In case these links change, you can find the products by searching on google.com for the Sony SRF-M70 (that’s the radio) and the Sony MDR-ED228LP.

The size of the Walkman is 4.5 inches tall x 2.75 inches wide x 1 inch thick. It’s not tiny but it fits nicely in a cycling jersey rear pocket where it can easily be reaching for changing channels and adjusting the volume.

Perhaps the best feature of this Walkman is that it goes from AM to FM automatically. In other words, there are 10 presets and by hitting one button, it will cycle through the channels even if some are FM and others are AM so you can go from music to talk radio without having to search for a separate mode button to change.

The Walkman comes with a clip on the back, which is handy if you like to run/job or walk/hike because you can slip the radio over your waistband (it goes in pants pockets nicely, too). I take the clip off for cycling because you don’t need it if you’re carrying it in a jersey pocket.

The unit takes 2 AAA batteries and it lasts 6 weeks or so depending on how much you listen. It’s also durable. I’ve dropped mine a few times and it seems to handle it just fine. I’ve also ridden in the pouring rain for hours with no ill effect to the Walkman or headphones.
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